This waste comprises 42% pre-consumer waste, such as fabric cut-offs and yarn scraps, and 51% post-consumer waste from discarded clothing. Additionally, 7% is imported from other countries. 

These statistics were highlighted by Saurabh Shah, Managing Director, Landbell GreenForest Solutions India, as he moderated a webinar on Assessing India's Readiness in EPR for Textile Waste,  organised by his company. The panelists included  Paul Doertenbach, Global Textile Recycling Expert - Landbell Group, Sundar Senthilnathan, Head of Public Affairs - H&M Group India, Gargi Pareek, Director - Government Affairs - Tomra India, Anurag Gupta, Founder and Managing Director - Usha Yarns Limited, and Akshay Gunteti, Co-founder - Green Worms. 

India has implemented EPR for several materials, including plastic waste, electronic waste, batteries, lubricant oils, waste tyres, and end-of-life vehicles.  “It's evident that EPR for textile waste is the logical next step in India,” the session began with this consideration, as the panelists went on to assess the country’s readiness for the impending EPR regulations and delve into the key aspects of EPR regulations for textile waste as observed in EU countries, evaluating their relevance and applicability within the Indian context.

“The challenges in textile waste are even more complex due to the heterogeneous nature of the materials and the lack of sufficient recycling capacity. As India is a major textile manufacturer and consumer, navigating these challenges to meet EPR compliance is crucial,” noted Shah. 

Learnings from Europe

Paul Doertenbach shared insights from his work in European countries close to implementing EPR for textiles. He highlighted that aligning stakeholders in the existing reverse supply chain with new regulations and targets is a major challenge. Effective EPR schemes must address the global flow of materials to ensure a circular economy, he pointed out.

Sundar Senthilnathan discussed the positive consumer behaviour towards garment reuse in India, which is less common in developed countries. He recommended designing EPR schemes to include incentives for reuse, repurposing, and recycling, while not disincentivising existing charitable activities. He also noted that EPR schemes in India should incentivise brands to implement strong collection and take-back mechanisms, promoting reuse. He stressed the need for infrastructure to support these initiatives and the importance of involving all stakeholders, including semi-organised markets and online channels.

Recycling challenges and opportunities

Anurag Gupta highlighted the complexities of recycling post-consumer textile waste. While pre-consumer and post-industrial textile waste can be recycled into yarn suitable for apparel, post-consumer waste often results in coarser products used in industrial applications. 

Gargi Pareek discussed the role of mechanical sorters in the evolving market of textile recycling, particularly in India. She explained that while sorting for textile recycling is still relatively new, significant advancements have been made and highlighted the need for more extensive sorting technology to handle larger volumes and varied qualities of textiles.

Shah raised a critical point about the importance of EPR in driving investments in infrastructure and increasing recycling volumes. He drew parallels with other industries where EPR regulations have significantly influenced market behaviour and infrastructure development.

Doertenbach provided a European perspective, highlighting the varying collection rates and infrastructures across EU member states. He underscored the importance of integrating sorting for recycling within the value chain to support a recycling industry. He suggesed that India has a unique opportunity to develop a comprehensive recycling infrastructure due to its position as a major textile manufacturing hub, which could facilitate the transition from a linear to a circular economy. 

Brand initiatives

Senthilnathan discussed the hurdles in using recycled materials, especially from post-consumer waste, due to technological limitations and regulatory uncertainties. He spoke about the importance of supporting the supply chain in adopting recycled fibres and addressing the complexities of using different materials.

Gupta addressed the profitability of recycling operations, stressing that any business must be viable to sustain itself. He acknowledged the importance of EPR but underscored the technological and design bottlenecks that need to be overcome. 

Senthilnathan noted that while incentives can initially drive consumer behaviour, their effectiveness diminishes over time. This was illustrated through the example of H&M's collection centres, which offer discount coupons to customers depositing post-consumer waste. Although this approach has had some success, particularly in India, where family and cultural practices still prioritise reuse, it has not been universally effective. He stressed the need for a more comprehensive approach, suggesting that the EPR scheme should account for textile waste collection efforts to ensure a holistic solution.

The global nature of the textile industry necessitates alignment between international and local EPR directives, he noted, adding that synchronizing India’s EPR policy with the EU’s forthcoming directives could facilitate a seamless value chain integration. Doertenbach supported this view, reflecting on his experience with H&M's global Takeback programme and highlighting the critical role of incentives in motivating consumer participation.

Technological developments

As the conversation shifted to the operational aspects of textile recycling, Doertenbach underscored the need for automation and digital product passports to enhance sorting processes. Manual sorting, he argued, is insufficient to handle the volume of discarded garments. Digital product passports, which provide detailed information about each garment, could revolutionise sorting operations, enabling more accurate decisions about recycling processes and ultimately supporting a circular economy.