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"India's infrastructure for managing textile waste requires significant development"

Interview with Bhadresh M. Dodhia, Chairman, MATEXIL (Manmade and Technical Textiles Export Promotion Council)


January 7 2025
 
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Is Textile recycling gaining traction in India? What is driving this trend?

India has been at the forefront as a proactive player in addressing global environmental challenges, with a strong commitment to achieving zero emissions and promoting sustainability. 

Yes, textile recycling is gaining significant traction in India. The key drivers include clothing brands’ commitment towards sustainability, growing consumer demand for eco-friendly products, growing environmental awareness, government policies supporting circular economy principles, and the increasing adoption of sustainable practices by both manufacturers and consumers. Additionally, rising global demand for recycled materials and India's robust textile manufacturing ecosystem, which focuses on integrating closed-loop recycling into the value chain are also factors.  

How are brands promoting recycling? Tell us about the trends you have observed from your experience working with brands.

Brands are promoting recycling through various initiatives, such as Designing products with recyclability in mind; Implementing take-back programmes for used products; Using recycled materials in their products and Partnering with recycling companies to develop closed-loop systems. 

Here's how some global leaders are making an impact:

IKEA aims for all products to be reusable, refurbishable, or recyclable by 2030, with initiatives like the "Buy Back and Resell" programme and transitioning to renewable packaging.

Decathlon refurbishes used sports gear via its "Second Life Program" and plans for all products to be eco-designed by 2026.

H&M collects garments for reuse and recycling through its Garment Collecting Program, targeting 100% sustainable materials by 2030.

Zara promotes garment recycling with its Clothes Collection Program, aiming for 100% sustainable fabrics by 2025.

Patagonia extends garment lifecycles with its Worn Wear Program and plans to use 100% renewable or recycled materials by 2025.

Levi’s reduces water use with Water<Less® and creates circular jeans with Re:newcell, targeting 100% sustainably sourced cotton by 2025.

Nike advances zero waste and emissions goals through its Nike Grind program, with 78% of footwear incorporating recycled materials.

Adidas turns ocean plastics into apparel and focuses on closed-loop designs like the fully recyclable FUTURECRAFT.LOOP.

Uniqlo collects used clothes through Re.Uniqlo and innovates recycling technologies to reduce emissions by 90% by 2030.

Lululemon targets circular products by 2030 via its Like New Program and use of bio-based materials.

These brands are setting industry benchmarks, blending innovation with sustainability to foster a circular economy.

What are the challenges in sourcing and processing post-consumer textiles? How are the recyclers and other stakeholders addressing them?

Currently, collection, contamination of materials, lack of standardisation in textile recycling processes and high recycling costs are some of the challenges in sourcing and processing post-consumer textiles. Recyclers and stakeholders are addressing these issues through innovative technologies like AI-enabled sorting systems, technology to improve recycling efficiency & reduce costs, developing closed-loop systems with brands and manufacturers, collaborations with waste management companies, and awareness campaigns to encourage responsible disposal. Government and industry partnerships are also playing a crucial role in improving collection and recycling systems.

Does India have adequate infrastructure to effectively manage textile waste? 

No, the existing infrastructure to manage textile waste in India is not sufficient as it is not at a commercial scale. India's infrastructure for managing textile waste requires significant development, necessitating a strong governmental push to establish an adequate and efficient system. There is a need for enhanced collection mechanisms, advanced recycling facilities, and widespread consumer education on waste segregation. The establishment of organised recycling zones and incentives for private-sector investment could further bolster India's textile waste management capabilities.

How do current government regulations impact textile waste management?

Currently, there is no specific government regulation on Textile Waste Management. Government policy initiatives at both central and state levels play a pivotal role in shaping textile waste management in India. By fostering recycling, encouraging producer responsibility, and minimising textile waste in landfills, these policies contribute to building a more sustainable and circular textile industry.

For example, to encourage collection and recycling in the plastic segment, under the Plastic Waste Management Rules, 2016, the Indian government offered capital subsidies of up to 30%. This has attracted a significant amount of investment in the plastic recycling segment and has substantially developed and streamlined the plastic waste management eco-system in the country. On similar lines, both the central and State governments need to encourage collection and recycling of the textile waste management at commercial levels. This will not only attract investment and create an eco-system for textiles recycling but also generate huge inventory for recycled and sustainable fibres and textiles in India.

India is leading the way with proactive measures in recycling and waste management. Through public-private partnerships, innovative solutions, and strengthened regulations, the textile industry has the potential to drive environmental sustainability and foster circularity.